Du 4 au 10 nov
Finca Ixobel à la grotte et à Chacté
65km en 2 jours (route non pavé)
|Sur la route vers la grotte Naj Tunish|
|Maison de Noël|
|Nos hôtes à la Tienda Our hosts|
On se trouve une pension qui offre des repas et on visite la ville, très commerçante. On prend le repas avec d’autres pensionnaires guatémaltèques qui viennent à Chacté pour affaire.
Finca Ixobel to the cave to Chacte
65km in 2 days ( unpaved road)
We stayed an extra day at the Finca as it started raining in the morning and you could see it was going to rain all day...read books and slept. The next morning, we get an early start as we are going to take an unpaved secondary road to get to a cave in the middle that you can visit (mayan drawings ,some erotics). We are in good shape after 3 days of rest but we didn’t realize the road was going to have ups and downs and big rocks in between, it was hell...we stop for lunch and a nap at 12h30 and we go for it again. A motocycle with 2 riders stop and would like to help us, they work for the site and take our bike bags to relieve us.
We are going to spend the night with Noel in the custodian hut and we are even going to share our meals with him...we have a nice evening and go to bed early...next morning, we have breakfast with Noel and head out for our bikes...we still have 30 km in ups and downs and big rocks, we are quickly exhausted so we decide to take our time, we stop for coco juice, to eat an orange, to talk to people. At 11, we stop for a coke and chips at a corner tienda run by a family and we get invited for lunch: frijolles, tortillas and fresh cheese, it’s heaven...we have a hard time leaving the place but we still have more than ½ the road to do with ups and downs and rocks in between...I almost give up and take the bus but people tell us we are soon there...finally we see the sidewalks of Chacte, thank God...we find a little pension wher we can have diner with other guatémaltèques staying there for business from other towns..
Chacté à Rio Dulce
75km en 4h
|Finca Tatin Lounge|
Arrivé à destination, comme il nous reste encore des forces, nous décidons de continuer. Notre choix porte sur La Finca Tatin, un jardin tropical situé à 1h de bateau par la rivière Dulce. Il n’y a pas de route qui se rend dans ce bout du monde. Nos bicyclettes font à nouveau du bateau et seront hors de services pour quelques jours. On passe deux jours à la Finca Tatin à visiter les alentours et à profiter des activités et de la bonne cuisine. Ici c’est un peu plus cher: chambre à 15$can et repas à 8$. .. On y dépensera plus de 120$ en deux jours, ce qui est hors de nos dépenses habituelles qui se situent autour de 40$ par jour pour deux.
|Noix de coco abondante|
Today we are going to have a fun ride, a long downhill from 870 m to the level of the river Dulce. We’ve been having cool days and nights and we know that we’ll be going back to the heat! Everybody is waving at us going by, honking their horn and blinking their lights and we hear “good-bys” at every corner...
|Tapado à Livingston|
We are staying 2 nights at the Finca and explore the area and swim in the river, sauna in the evening with another swim...it’s a little bit expensive but we do enjoy the good food taken together on a long table..
We leave the next day by kayaks to arrive at Livingston, a small sea town with a caribben feel, colorful houses and a nice atmosphere. We had the best Tapado ever, our 1st one too. It’s a coconut mik soup with spices served with shrimps, crab and a fish + plantain...it was heaven.
We also went to a concert of garifuna music (music you find in central and south america in black communities) with musicians from Belize, Honduras, Guatemala, Haiti and which was hosted by the Spanish ambassy, great music in a poor location (municipal gymnase in cement with metal roof)!!!
De Livingston au Ranch de Alfredo
44 km en 3h30 de route
|Typical snack on the road|
|Camping sur la montagne|
We left Livingston by boat again to Puerto Barrios, a busy town and port which is involved in transiting fruits and goods to North America to supply brands like Dole and Chiquita. The town came together through United fruits in the 50 and the company has been known to push and establish right wing governments (military). We go through fast and head west. Then it starts to rain and we arrange our bags in waterproof mode. We go for it slowly and we realize that the road is a bit slippery..big traffic as it’s the main road for Guatemala city (300 km away). Then the rain is getting stronger so we take shelter at a nearby farm. Soon a rancher comes to great us and we meet Alfredo, from Guatemala who has spent 10y in the States as a bull rider and tree climber. He’s in his 30’s and is also a cancer survivor (L foot was amputated, a rare cancer). We start chatting and soon we are invited for coffee and cakes...then we stay the night in an abandon house that he owns...he came back to his country with his young daughter as his father is getting old and they also lost a brother/son in a car accident. In the morning, after a noisy night of fitting the truckers, we share the breakfast with the family: fresh eggs, cheese and frijolles. Alfredo is letting us know he’s looking for partners to develop the farm...we might think about it...do you ?
Du Ranch à Alfredo à El Lobo
76km en 4h34 de route
Nous quittons le ranch sous la pluie. Les nuages se sont heureusement dissipés assez tôt et la route a repris son charme (sauf pour les camions...y’en a trop!). À l’heure du lunch, nous avons arrêté à un «comédor» qui servait un de ces foie de boeuf dans un sauce légèrement tomatée... un vrai délice !
|Fromage à la ferme|
We leave the farm under a sprinkle of rain and soon it stops and we are enjoying the ride (except the trucks!!). For lunch, we stop at a small restaurant that served us liver in a nice tomaty sauce...
14 nov au 16 nov
De la ferme à Robin à Chiquimula
67 km en 4h30
|Katja's new look|
Still on #9 road, we are heading west. At midday, we are shifting to head south on #10 road. There’s lot’s of ups and downs waiting for us. We get to Chiquimula exhausted around 4:30 again. We find a nice cheap hotel with a big room, a washing area in the room instead of a sink...great. We’re going to spend a few days to repair a few things and rest. We go and stroll in the markets and Yves decides to have a hair cut and a shave, he comes out looking like a latino or better a british colonial!!! I choose to have a pedicure and it's haven. The town isn't touristy at all, lot's of rancheros wearing guns on their hip which makes us a bit uncomfortable. They also have a big mall with Mc Donald's and a food court of fast food!!!!!!!!!!
We are leaving for the mountains and the coffee farms. We met Giovanni last year in Calgary and he has his farm in the area so we have decided to take a tour and meet his family